No.015
The collection of a vintage bookstore owner with a penchant for Glenroyal
Tweed Books ownerKatsumi Hosokawa
I feel like I made a great purchase each time I use it.
There is a bookstore located on a quiet shopping street near Hakuraku Station. At first glance it appears to be just another seller of used volumes. Look inside, however, and you will find a torso mannequin on display dressed neatly in a suit jacket alongside a deep selection of rare books and magazines on clothing and fashion in one corner. Katsumi Hosokawa is the owner of this oh-so-distinctive bookshop.
Clad in British fashion, he continues to be not only a merchant of books but also a purveyor of culture. Here we speak with Mr. Hosokawa about his love for Glenroyal products, which he has been using regularly for over ten years.
A bookstore for those looking to enhance their style.
━ Tell us a bit about the origin of Tweed Books.
The university I attended was near Kanda, so I would often go to the used bookstores in Jinbocho to dig through their selections. I began working at a shop selling new books after I graduated, and then later found employment in the sales office of a publisher. At the time I had aspirations of being a musician while I worked, so I was happy to have a job where I leave at 5pm each day (laughs). I had to start wearing suits when I started on at the publisher which, coupled with my having always been interested in apparel, led to me studying up on the subject by reading all kinds of books and magazines. My interest intensified to the point that I made Tweed Books.
At first I pondered carrying only books on clothing, but I soon realized reading only titles about fashion wouldn’t be enough to enhance one’s sense of style. I thought that perhaps other sorts of things like literature and philosophy were also necessary. It was with that in mind that I reached my current business model of carrying a comprehensive selection of books in addition to those related to apparel. I believe that those like myself who are looking to create a style that is all their own are in search of something. I strive to be a bookstore that can provide them with that something.
A discovery of British culture while delving into one's interests.
━ What intrigues you about British culture?
When I came on board at the publishing company and started wearing a suit to work, I was clueless about what I should buy. The “classico Italiano” boom was coming to an end right about then, but for some reason that style just didn’t click with me. I sat down and thought about what I liked, which made me realize that I prefer traditional brands like Ralph Lauren or Brooks Brothers. Digging even further revealed that what I was attracted to were British styles through an American filter. That being the case, I naturally became curious about the real deal and became engrossed in British styles. From there I studied up on the culture through books and began buying products from the UK. I became particularly hooked on tweed jackets to the point where I now own more than 30. I was blown away when I learned from the vintage shop Rising Sun in Yokohama that people in England even wear them to the convenience store like we would a jumper. Whether they’re made of leather or wool, British products give off a strong impression being tough and retaining their shape well. That’s why I feel so drawn to using them regularly.
Learning about style, etiquette and things from books.
━ Did you have any books that you consider a sort of "fashion bible"?
The first one that comes to mind is Kazuo Hozumi’s Ehon Ivy Boy Zukan (Ivy Boy Illustrated), which I referred to a lot for its drawings of pretty much every Ivy style out there. I happened upon this book when I was in university but didn’t actually read and put it to use until I started wearing suits for work. Mr. Hozumi actually came into my previous location by chance one time, which was a great honour. Since then we have friendly chats whenever we bump into each other. I learned all the detailed etiquette, like making sure your belt can’t be seen when you wear a vest, or having a few centimetres of your shirt stick out from the sleeves of your jacket, from the works of Masakatsu Ochiai. My bible when it comes to British culture was written by Katsutaro Hayashi. That was where I learned about things like the trench coat that were born in England and continue to be popular there today.
A brand that combines class and quality.
━ How did you discover Glenroyal?
It’s been over ten years now, but one day I went to look at Church’s at a shop called Decentages (now British Made) in Marunouchi. That was when I learned of Glenroyal and made an instant purchase of this apple green book cover I fell in love with at first sight. It’s been a constant companion ever since. This briefcase was on display when I made a return visit to the same store towards the end of that year. Even though what had they had at the store was just that one sample, I had just received my bonus and decided that I simply had to have it. The fact that it’s made of tough bridle leather means it’s stayed in good shape, and the stitching hasn’t come undone at all, either. It proved of great service on rainy or snowy days back when I was a salary man.
The pouch, wallet, and key holder I purchased seven or eight years ago. Despite normally being so outspoken about liking trad styles, I’m actually into mode as well. That’s why I chose this flashy pouch to hold all my point cards for tailors. I picked up the wallet so I could keep my hands free when I go out to have fun on the weekends. I love it because it fits in the pocket of my jacket perfectly. The key holder I didn’t have any particular use in mind for, but now I keep it on hand in my shop with a shoehorn from Lloyd Footwear attached.
Fun or relaxing.
━ What are your criteria when making a purchase?
The most important thing is whether the product is fun or relaxing. Fun things would be those that are new to me, like say some indoor shoes by Tricker’s that I bought a few years ago, or those that I simply want to be fun like mode apparel. Relaxing things would be things that I can feel very relaxed about using like British suits and tweed jackets, or those that I have history with like this Seiko Lord Marvel and my Glenroyal items I’ve been using for a decade.
Books and leather goods are alike.
━ What are you particular about when it comes to care?
I apply cream to my leather goods and give them a polish once a year. The truth is that I don’t really see the necessity in caring for them all that much, and even think just giving them a shine with a dry cloth is maybe enough. With used books, for example, I don’t mind if the previous owner wrote in them, or if they’re a little stained or tattered, because I think it adds to their character. Some of my customers do prefer their books to be in pristine condition, though. Actually, I did have a bit of an incident not long after I purchased the apple green book cover. I went to eat at a standing soba restaurant and placed it on a shelf under the table, which as it happened was covered with cleanser… I was terrified to see that it had left a stain when I wiped it off. In the end my love for the cover won out, though, and now it’s such a close companion that there isn’t a day where I don’t put it to use because it’s dirty (laughs).
photoTRYOUT textK-suke Matsuda
Tweed Books owner
Katsumi Hosokawa
Born in 1975 in Yokohama. Completed a Master’s program at Jochi University.
Opened the vintage bookstore Tweed Books after stints working at a seller of new books and a publisher. Transmits culture through his bookselling business as part of a way of building his own style. His store carries mainly rare volumes on apparel, along with other publications in genres such as music, literature, philosophy, history, design, art, and film. His favourite authors include Yasutaka Tsutsui and Ko Machida.
photoTRYOUT textK-suke Matsuda